Port calls: Aprilia Maritiima- Novigrad - Unije - Olib - Telascica National Park - Kornati National Park - Levrnaka - Zut - Veli Rat - Ilovik - Unije - Novigrad - Aprilia Marittima
Days cruised: 14
Difficulty of sailing route: experience required with anchoring and stronger wind conditions
Timeplan: partly ambitious
Notwendige Selbstversorgung: 3 days, destinations with limited infrastructure
Day 1 - 8. August 2018
On 7th of August, Ed Sheeran performed in Vienna and my daughter Leonie had to go there. So the holiday start was postponed and we drove on the 8th. From Vienna to Lignano, it ususally takes us around 5 hours. I had to consider the following: the exit of the Marina Punta Gabbiani was dug three years ago. Due to the rapid dispatch of sand and mud, this year meant for us that it was only possible to go in and out at high tide. So finally, with sufficient water level under the keel, we officially started our summer cruise 2018 at 3 pm, with light wind conditions and cruising towards Novigrad.
After a lively quarrel had developed on board, where we wanted to moor in Novigrad, we tried the city port for the first time and we were simply thrilled. First, it is very close to the centre, then - the crossing with the Dinghy is spared and no one is upset about the flooded showers of the marina. Because, there are no showers.
Docked to the port-quai
Fish illuminated by blue LED underwater spot-lights
Day 2 - 9. August 2018
Our very ambitious day-goal for day two was called Unije and with about 60 nautical miles ahead of us we wanted to get going. However, I had to see the Port Captain first, as the office was no longer opened during the evening mooring. After completion of the formalities we made our way and unfortunately due to the wind conditions we had to travel some distance under engine. At the height of Vrsar we met a schooner we had seen here two years ago already.
Around 6.00 PM we reached Maracol, one of the three bays in the east of Unije. Luckily, we were able to experience the first evening with sensational view of the shower of the Perseids, which should reach its top level in the coming days.
A small meteorite crosses
Mars on the first, right spreader of our neighbors
Day 3 - 10. August 2018
We definitely wanted to enjoy the crystal clear water in the bay to do swiming, snorkeling and also to test the new outboard engine from Torqeedo. So we stayed until afternoon which felt rather comfortable with only approx. 30 nautical miles to go on this very day. Our plan was to reach Olib from our place in Unije, which was easy to do in very pleasant sailing conditions. Until the afternoon, the wind had picked up quite a bit and we were happy to find a narrow spot for docking at the pier. And we were lucky two times as we found out, that the swell was rocking the boats that were moored further way in to the port. So always make sure you can dock at the pier if, especially under windy conditions.
Sunset in Olib
Day 4 - 11. August 2018
From Olib we wanted to reach the southern end of Otok Dugi. On the way we saw a school of dolphins, which accompanied us for a few minutes.
A break was planned for swimming and jumping into the sea and we wanted to visit an old bunker plant of the former yugoslavian army. After that and towards the evening we reached the nature park Telašćica with now around 4 beaufort of wind.
Under Code zero comfortably towards the South
As for this area typical, we had to reach rather close with some strong gusts from NE. So there was a lot to do in the rather narrow passage. Sabine wanted to clear the sheet of the Code zero and pulled to strongly to finally let it unfurl. After Leonie repeatedly paused during the roll-up of the endless furling line, the sail rolled out again and again and caused quite some stress on board. Since then, the code zero has always been secured against its own roll-out. Another experience again! At the end of the fjord we anchored almost directly in front of the Konoba go-ro, read more about it in its own post. Before we continued to the National Park Kornati, it was still necessary to replenish the cash stocks, because on the small islands there were of course, neither banks nor ATMs. So Luis and I made our way to Sali by foot.
Luis fought bravely through the surrounding hills and defied Croatia's summer heat
The town of Sali lies on the east coast of Dugi Otok and serves as port of entry during the summer time. The small port is rather crowded. There is a small supermarket, a few farmers sell their home grown foods, ice cream parlors can be found together with a few restaurants.
Day 5 - 12. August 2018 from Telašćica we went to the national Park Kornati and enjoyed the quiet gliding between the numerous islands. We found the history of the twelve firefighters killed on Kornat in August 2007 so touching that we decided to pay a visit to the crosses dedicated to them. From this stopover it was only a stone's throw to Levrnaka, where we wanted to stay, to watch again the shooting stars with as little light pollution as possible.
Kornati National Park
Day 6 - 13. August 2018
Due to our stays at away from the marinas, our resources were largely exhausted. The water tanks were empty at 2/3, the batteries were only low charged and, above all, we wanted to finally bring the cleanly separated garbage from the ship. No, wait: Leonie finally wanted to take a shower on land, I almost forgot to mention. Furthermore, the shipping forecast predicted thunderstorms and strong winds and we did not want to tackle too long a blow. So our route led to Žut. There we enjoyed the Konoba Sandra, super clear water for bathing and the nice neighborhood of the crew of "Chandra", a yacht of German Frers with 56 foot length.
Well protected viewing space
As it rained nearly the entire next day, we decided to stay in the marina and give us a break. Pulling more than 100 litres/ship/day of water was not allowed so we were quite OK with standing by and further supplementing our supplies. As there were not recycling containers available on the island, we desperately filled our cleanly separated rubbish into the ontainers for all trash. We duly hope that containers for waste separation will be installed soon.
Day 8 - 15. August 2018
It still blew vigorously, but not crazy. Nevertheless, many sailors had decided to spend another day in the marinas. Because when we left Žut, we were almost alone on the water. We used the conditions to allow Leonie to gain a bit of experience on hand-steering at 5-6 Beaufort. "Exhausting but cool" as she stated later.
At 25 knots with Gerefften sailing which, a good exercise on the bike
In the evening we reached Veli rat and were glad that the water tanks were well filled, because here you have to pay for water, in addition to the mooring fee. In the evening we were delighted with delicious hospitality at the pizzeria Galeb.
Day 9 - 16. August 2019 hasn't there been such a long queue in front of the reception of the marina, we would have left much earlier. But as I had to spent a good hour at check-out our departure was a bit delayed. Once there at the wreck on the north tip of the island, we took an impressive snorkel excursion. I did not know how the depth of the sea was designed here, so we anchored with good distance. Next time I would drive closer to the wreck, because here the constant ca. 5 meters deep and you can approach safely. And, I would come sooner, because the incoming sailors often missed good sesameness, came far too close to our boat and a hair would have been a crash.
Actually we wanted to reach Mali Lošinj, but the changing wind conditions (at noon, again in the afternoon 25 knots on the nose) and the wind direction made it nearly impossible to make good headway. Finally, we decided to go to Ilovik.
At 8.30 pm we reached the buoys between Ilovik and Sveti Petar but found no more space. So we docked at the pier, where the ferry line was set up. At 9 pm we made room again for the ferry to arrive and depart and we had to promise to be gone again at 6.00 am the next morning. No problem of course!
Day 10 - 17. August 2018
Shortly after dropping out of Ilovik the sun went up. Moritz had made himself comfortable on deck and watched the scenery. He helped with hoisting the sails and then engaged in preparing for breakfast. At some point the air was out.
After we had left so early, we put in a stop in Mali Lošinj, added some food, bought souvenirs and then drove on to Unije to moor this time in Podkujni.
Day 11 - 18. August 2018
Each of the children and of course Sabine had to put in a wish for a destination, where we had to stay during the holiday. Unije and Mali Lošinj had already been done, and now we wanted to explore Brijuni again as the next upcoming wish destination. Finally, the plan was to visit the restaurant marina in Novigrad, which was my wish for this cruise in the med.
Sunrise in Unije
So at dawn we made our way to get as much of the day as possible after our arrival in Brijuni. Next to swimming, the program was followed by a trip with the electric car and dinner at the Hotel Neptun.
Day 12 - 19. August 2018 on the way to Novigrad we passed Rovinj with its large construction site, Vrsar with the Great restaurant Trošt and the Lim Canal. But the goal was perfectly clear: the restaurant marina, my absolute wishing destination for this summer cruise. Sabine and I also celebrated our wedding annoversary on August 18th, and we wanted to do it properly. Here are a few highlights, without further words.....
Day 13 - 20. August 2018 for some reason, Leo was in a hurry to return home. And so we had, good weather provided, our return trip to Aprilia already for the 20th. August. So with a few winds and almost mirror-smooth sea, we motored from Croatian territory and reached the lagoon in the early afternoon. Just right to get back with the tide to reach our marina. Moritz used the time for a rig check;-)
After this we knew that we had to buy a mast harness suitable for children!
14. Day, 21. August 2018 for some reason the washing machine had not hurled and we could not throw our garment in the dryer. So everything had to be hung outside and our boat looked like a laundromat....
And the provisionally last night on board had begun. It was now time to improve the underwater painting again and also to put the UW headlights in such a way that they were actually underwater.